Musings of an Ukraine Traveler

Letters Home:  December 2004

Tak!

That is rather like " Just say Yes!" and it is presidential candidate Victor Yushenko's slogan! From what you have written most of you have been following what is happening here on American news which I tend to suspect either sensationalizes or is rather superficial coverage. I would hope you followed BBC or maybe even China Daily News which both really get it.

Am I proud, am I amazed, am I glad Oh yes!!!! This has been another week of a joyful, extremely peaceful, standing up of Ukrainians to the Kuchma administration and to Putin and forcing them to their knees. Ukrainians will not give up their right to elect whom they choose. They did not ignore the corruption, the attempt to draw them back into the fear and passivity of the Soviet era.

I told you about the rally here in Korostyshiv last week. This weekend I experienced Kiev and learned from PCVs all over the country about what they have seen and experienced. It is the same even in the east where Yanukovich is supposed to have such a strong hold. Every day thousands gather in Independence square if even for a few minutes to show their solidarity. Some come go from Korostyshiv and other towns every day. Sometimes whole train loads come in for a day or the weekend. No one has struck; nothing has been shut down; there is no litter, nothing has been broken or destroyed. Buses are provided to get on and get warm. Cards for 50 griven ($10) assure a person of hot food and a place to get warm all day. People sing laugh, wave flags, share, look at each other, dance and shoot off fireworks. It seems everyone in Ukraine is wearing something orange--ribbons, scarfs, jackets, arm bands, leg bands, ribbons braided in their hair, face paint.
Buses, metro cars, marshurtkas,--handles, antennas fly the orange.

Perhaps to you that might seem like nothing but you must really grasp that this goes entirely against Ukrainian culture as it has been up to this time. For almost 2 years our experience and learning of the culture is that you do not stand out; you do not stand up to authority, you do not protest, you do not reveal your beliefs. But you see the young have had over 12 years of independence; they have been learning what it means to be a Ukrainian, a responsible citizen in a democracy and they are the ones that are bringing their parents dressed in leather coats, their grandparents dressed in furs, their friends in jeans---all sporting unique and individual displays of orange to the squares to the rallies. The metro escalators, wagons, were packed body to body, chin to shoulder, leg to leg and everyone was smiling and almost no one PUSHED. They were a sea of orange.

I am so fortunate to be here. This really is history in the making and Ukrainians are winning. It is hard not to go join in, but it is not our celebration; it is not our rally, it is theirs and I would do nothing to mar it.

I guess you can see I feel very good. I had two meetings at PC headquarters. I stayed with Wini in her new Kyiv apartment. It is beautiful!!!. She has shower, continual hot water and a washer. She rides the metro to and from work and there is a bazaar and a supermarket right next to her complex. Oh yeah she is happy.

Hope you are all at peace and happy.  Take care.
I love you


Hello All,

This past week was busy as busy goes around here. I was invited to School #5 to speak to all of my colleague, Tamara's biology classes--forms 7-11, on Monday and Tuesday. She wanted me to explain about the science books that I had gotten for them from a program called Darien. She had received about 20 books and some National Geographics on environment, insects, wolves, etc etc. They were really great donations and ranged in level from 7th to 12 grade. Tamara will put them in her new Ecology Cabinet (a room dedicated strictly to displays, books, etc about the environment that students can use for study and research. She and her ecology circle students have created a wonderful room and the books are really welcome as they have no such books with wonderful pictures, etc. That took about 15 minutes and then she wanted me to talk about the trip to India. I did and related it to the environment. Most of the kids at #5 understand English, but student Katya did a beautiful job of translating when they didn't.

Tamara and her students are working on developing a project for which we are going to apply for a grant to get a computer and all the accessories, Internet, VCR/DVD and TV and water testing equipment to expand the cabinet but also the student's research into the water pollution here in Korostyshiv. I will help them get all the forms etc and Therese is going to be the PC sponsor as I can't do it as I am too close to COS (closing out of service.

Also worked on getting our environmental poster exhibition ready and maybe MAYBE, we will get it up tomorrow in the first school--#2. Hope to set it up in each school for 2 weeks each. Also worked on my project for the trash cans and on reports for two of the PC groups I am on.

Wini and I took the train to Vinnytsia on Friday evening. Alice had a wonderful homemade soup and wine for us when we got in. Saturday morning, 3 other PCVs from V came over; we had brunch and then made Christmas cards, ornaments etc under Alice's creative direction. At 5:30, we headed over to the only male PCV left in V, Brian's apartment  for dinner and a movie. It was so much fun. Brian had all the ingredients for each of us to make our own homemade pizzas and our own salads. Then we had chocolate ice cream with chocolate sauce and peanuts.  While Brian washed all the dishes, we 6 women drank beer and wine. When he finished the dishes he popped corn and then we watched Seabiscuit on his laptop. I had seen it 4 times (I use it for my movie club) I enjoyed it as much as ever and it was great to see and hear other people's reactions.

Left V about 10:30 by train for Kyiv; picked up the marshrutka at the volksal (train station) and was home in 4 and a half hours after a comfortable pleasant ride!   Like I said no more buses unless it absolutely the only way I can get somewhere. The bus trip from V is 4 hours of hell!

I and Wini will spend the weekend of 25th in Vinnytsia to celebrate American Christmas. I plan on spending the weekend of the 1st with the Drahalchuks as that is Novy God, New Years, and the Ukrainian time for trees, lights, gift giving and good food. I wasn't here last year and I really want to spend this very important holiday with them.

Wini, Alice, I and two other "mature" volunteers are going to Krakow the 2nd and return on the 6th. We will probably take the overnight Polish train from Kyiv to Krakow. We will stay in an apartment there and the trip should not cost us very much. Time is running out for our travel out of Ukraine. The last 3 months of service, we may not travel out of country and February 27th is coming up fast.

Again, please do not worry about sending me anything for Christmas although some of you already have. Send money to Carol for Masha's educational fund.

Am working on web pages of India trip and will let you know as soon as I have them done.

Love you much. Keep warm.


Dobray Outra! (Good morning)

As I am writing this I know that it is 6:30 (MST) right now Sunday morning so I can say that to most of you. It has been snowing all day here and it is a very wet snow. I never took the plunge and went out as I have enjoyed just being holed up in my apartment this weekend. It is the first time in a long time. We have had almost no winter to speak of although it was below freezing most of this past week.

Not a lot going on at work. I finished up getting together an exhibit of environmental posters made by students and it is now up in School #2. Waiting on ecology club and teacher from School #5 to get all their material together so we can finish writing up grant application. Have worked on a couple of projects for PC groups that I am on and that is about it.

Wini and I are going to Vinnytsia to spend this coming weekend with Alice for American Christmas. We will come back on the 26th--the new election day. Parliament has passed some good reforms for the whole process and if this time the election is fair, the new president may have a fighting chance to get them firmly implemented. The entire election committee was fired and new people appointed. The prime minister (the lackey candidate) was thrown out but he will still be running for office of course.

Four of us are planning on going to Krakow January 2-6th. This will probably be our last time out of country as we are fast approaching our last 90 days and we can't travel out of Ukraine. I am trying to get all the train tickets etc. Alice got us an apartment to stay in. Should be a good trip even though cold. Besides the city, we plan on spending a day at Auschwitz and Birkenau.

I actually got all my pictures of India organized, resized and laid out on my web site. You can look at pictures, but I haven't published the text yet. Started on it today and my goal is to have it done by the first if not sooner. Tomorrow I am going into Kyiv and pick up a CD that has everyone's pictures on it. I have seen some of them and they are wonderful. I will add some of the better ones to my site.

Therese and I started a Lord of the Rings marathon on Thursday night. She had never seen it and since Carol was so good to send it to me, we had a great time drinking wine, eating popcorn and watching it. She leaves tomorrow for the States to spend Christmas with her family. The new volunteer will arrive in Korostyshiv on the 27th so I am glad I will be here in order to greet her and spend some time with her. She will be living with a family for 3 months and that is good at this time of year with the holidays. She will be teaching English at School #5.

By the way, I met a PCV, group 25, who is teaching English in Vinnytsia and she is from Edmond. Her name is Timber Massey--really nice young woman.

Have a lovely day.  I will write next Monday when I return from Christmas in V.  Love and Peace



Ya blagadariu c rozhboctbo e novie god       I wish you a merry Christmas and a new year (roughly translated).

 I am heading to Vinnytsia today to spend Western Christmas with Alice and Wini. I will return on Sunday the 27th. Sunday is also election day and every one's hopes are high. 

Christmas decorations are and have been going up for about a week now. Roman Catholic and protestant churches will celebrate on the 25th. Ukrainian and Russian Orthodox will celebrate on January 7th. As for trees, gifts, parties, that is all on New Year's Eve. Last evening city workers put up the Korostyshiv tree. Like last year it is very beautiful. They will decorate it all next week and then the lighting will be on New Year's Eve. Glad I am going to be here for it this year.

 Ice is everywhere and only getting worse as more people walk on the sidewalks. I have even seen Ukrainians slip. Kids are sliding all the way to school and loving it. I got some Yak Trax from medical (like tire chains for your shoes) Mine are florescent lime so they are noticed and I don't care. They are wonderful! I would not be able to walk anywhere without them.

 I did a lot of work on India web pages and will finish them up next week. Will let you know. 


Happy Holidays

Well Christmas is past and New Year is upon me and I am late, late.

Wini, Alice and I headed by express train to Vinnytsia on Thursday night. Oh how nice that train is. Instead of 3.5 hours, we traveled in real comfort, beauty and cleanliness in 2.5 hours. When we reached Alice's apartment we had wonderful stew and lavash (flat bread); wine and finished off the evening with cognac from Armenia.

Friday, Christmas Eve we spent at Alice's center with her wonderful kids (Downs and Autistic). As is custom here for New Years, they were all dressed in costumes. Father Frost came as did Baba Yaga (like a good witch--Mom knew what she was doing all those Christmases!). The kids recited and sang pieces they had made up; the kids danced and swayed to the music playing on the keyboard. Oh how they love to dance and/or sway. Their smiles, their joy was the highlight of my Christmas. I can really see what a difference Alice and her center have made in them in the two years I have been around. Afterwards we shopped for groceries, headed home and ate and drank some more. Since it was Christmas Eve we three sang every Christmas song and carol we knew and since we are the PC Golden Girls we knew about a million.

Christmas Day, a lone male joined us--a PCV from Khmelnensky (Don't try to say it. I still can't!)  We baked two chickens; I made the stuffing; Wini made mashed potatoes and gravy. We finished off the cognac which was in a glass sword!  We viewed the full moon and called it a day and a great Christmas.

Next day, Sunday was election day. The train station was packed. Everyone out doing New Year shopping! In case you have forgotten: New Years is the day for decorations, trees, exchanging gifts and lots of fireworks.
In Vinnytsia and Kyiv there are a quite a few tree lots. People out in the country and villages cut their own.
Korostyshiv has a beautiful tree right in the center all decorated.

Since I got back I have been trying to catch up on Russian lessons, some work obligations and getting web site India pages done. Today, I went to Masha's school for her New Year's play and party. It was a lot like the one at Vinnytsia. Masha was dressed as the snow queen. Got a lot of pictures and Yura will put them on video tonight. She recited a poem in English and one in Ukrainian for Father Frost.

Now, there is getting ready for Novie God! I am excited to spend it with the Druhalchucks.  The tradition is that we eat at 11 pm; open gifts and toast with champagne at midnight then walk around the Yolka (Christmas tree) in the square. All the snow and thankfully the ice is gone as our weather has been very mild. It would be nice to have snow for the walk as the moon is still pretty full.  I still have some more shopping to do and will finish it tomorrow.

Still planning to go to Krakow on the 2nd, but I will write a short note on the 1st.

S novim godom       Happy New Year !    Love you all

 

                                                                 


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