Musings of an Ukraine Traveler

Happy New Year

Happy New Year Everyone! 

Wini and I arrived home yesterday evening. The Druhalchecks had a wonderful dinner waiting for us and were we glad. When we got to Kyiv, there were no buses running to Korostyshiv and right in the middle of our dilemma a man offered to drive us for 50 USD. It was a fair price as we had to get home and he picked up a little holiday bonus. I was going to write a lot about our trip tonight, but have been sick all day so am going to give you the basics and work on the web pages this weekend so that you can see and read.

 The trip to Cairo was one of the best I have ever been on. Our flight was on Egyptian Airlines. The service, the food and the airplane were exceptional. The planes are new and extremely clean. It was just like being on any of the American carriers except better for the food and service. We had one stop on our way down and that was Moscow! We were allowed to get out in the terminal--very modern, busy, but we couldn't buy anything because we didn't have rubles.

 We stayed at the Pharoh Egypt Hotel in the center of Cairo. Our room, a two room suite was moderate in price--$60 dollars a night which included a good breakfast every morning. The service was exemplary--very personal. The hotel got us a licensed driver, Rabea Kamil (more about this beautiful person on the web site) and he got us a great licensed tour guide. We just didn't have him enough days. We spent 7 days seeing and experiencing as much as we could. The people here are so very, very, friendly and so accepting of diversity. It is an extremely safe city. There are armed policemen everywhere, but their presence is a very diffident one and they were as friendly as the ordinary people. Traffic!!!!!!! Didn't get any pictures, but after our first foray across 8 lanes of traffic (no traffic lights for cars or pedestrians; no cross overs or cross under passages) to shop across the street from the hotel, we took a cab every time we wanted to get across street!!!! At about 75 cents it was worth it! The first time we came back from shopping Wini made it across at a different spot. The concierge at the hotel had to come and stop traffic to get me across.

 There are hundreds, thousands of tourists from every country in the world that come here and many travel in large groups in buses or mini vans. We had a car, a driver and a guide. The car cost $50 a day and we used it 4 days. The guide for 3 days was about $7 a day! We ate in wonderful restaurants--as Rabea said, "natural" ones. We went on a cruise on the Nile and we spent all afternoon and evening with Rabea's family in one of the poor sections of Cairo.

 Egyptians celebrate New Years like Ukrainians--trees, lights and gift giving. Wini and I celebrated New Year's Eve at a Japanese restaurant next to the hotel--superb! Getting through the airport New Years Day was absolutely hell! People were shoving carts, yelling, cutting, but we made it only to find out that we couldn't change our Egyptian pounds to dollars at the airport. Of course that rather insures people will buy stuff at the shops. I bought some more things, but not much. I just kept the pounds. Figured kids would like to see them. I shopped a lot in Egypt. Of course that is the game that any driver or tour guide plays. They always have a friend who runs a jewelry store, a carpet factory, a papyrus gallery, etc. They get a commission of whatever is bought. The same thing in China. Rabea was no exception, but his really were good quality and Wini and I are not afraid to say no. Of course, our Visa cards came in quite handy.

 Today was a holiday here in Ukraine, but most of stores were open. The tree in the plaza is really beautiful and people were out all day in the first real snow we have had bringing the kids to it; pulling little ones on sleds and getting whatever sun they could. I will work Monday through Wednesday and then am off for Christmas which is mostly a religious holiday here. In spite of feeling rotten I got two loads of wash done and have 4 more to go, but we have water all day so if I am patient to wait for the dribble I will get it all done.

 I will be presenting a teacher workshop around the 16th and then go to Kyiv with Natasha for four days of language refresher. Will see lots of my group and am looking forward to it. Well, I am dying out here so will try my best to get web pages on Egypt done by Sunday and let you know. I love you. Thanks for all the messages. They meant a lot. 

Post Offices and Electricity

Dear family and friends,

 Since the dial up server has not answered since last night, I have no idea when you will receive this little epistle. Yes the holidays are officially over tonight. Tomorrow the kids go back to school and the work weeks begin in earnest for everyone. Have just begun reading Seabiscuit---what a very good book especially for those of you who love horses.

 I worked every day this past week except Wednesday, Ukrainian Christmas. I did get the grant pretty much rewritten, now comes making copies. I had to take my computer to work on Tuesday and Thursday as Zhanna, my director was using the one in the office. Don't really like doing that not so much for the hauling it as the unplugging everything in and out, but I may have to take it one more day to finish up outlines of my two workshops. I have quite a few posters to make and lots of copies to run so will probably use my time to do that. 

I received Virginia's box on Monday--thank you very much as does Rah-Rah. The rest of the boxes may be at the post office, but they haven't sent me the slips yet, maybe Monday. The post office fills out a notice (hand written of course) and then I have to fill out passport information on the back of that form and take it with passport to the post office where there are two clerks, but only one waits on the line usually a good sized one. I may be repeating myself here. The clerk then stamps the form, goes to the back room, brings out a large burlap or plastic cloth sack which  contains only one package or envelope. She then cuts the plastic seal, dumps out the package on the floor, weighs it, and I sign another form that the weight is the same as when it left USA. This is important as all packages are opened and the contents inspected by customs in Kyiv. They are then tied (and I use that word loosely) back together. Packing envelopes are stapled. 

The post office offers many little services: they sell lottery tickets (got behind a man one time who bought 50 and I had to wait until he filled all 50 out and the clerk ran them through); greeting cards with no envelopes, boxes (all these are on a shelf behind clerk--you can't touch). You can also send telegrams and wire money at the post office. Once in a while they sell candy. Most people buy one envelope with a stamp when they are ready to send a letter. The clerk licks the stamp and puts it on the envelope. I may have told you about the young clerk who almost had a heart attack when I bought 25 air mail stamps. She had to ask if that was Ok! They do have computers for recording what is bought, but there are no receipts but most of the clerks use their abacus to check the computer. All stores in small towns use abacuses to figure bills. You thought only Asian countries used them right?

 It's snowing a little again today. Yesterday was a brilliant, sunny day. I took Therese to Zhytomer yesterday because I needed new cartridges for my printer and she wanted to buy a printer for herself. The department stores and the bazaar were packed with shoppers. It was a nice day and we just happened upon a little shop that sold photo paper for printers! If I would have just waited, Bob wouldn't have had to ship me a package. I really like my little Canon printer. Quite frankly it prints much better than my HP did and pictures look good even on plain paper.

 Not a whole lot happening in my life right now, but I'm sure that won't last. Yura had to fix my bathroom door again. The man is a genius at repair. He also rewired the overhead light and plug in my bedroom. They were connected in a series so that when I turned on my living room light which was plugged into the plug, the overhead light in the bedroom would go on just a little. If I turned on the overhead with the switch, the lamp would go off. Anyway, it got to the point where neither one worked when one of the bulbs went out. Yura just shook his head and said, you could have blown up something with it wired like that. Before I leave Ukraine, he will have to put it back like it was or my landlady will have a fit and could get him in trouble.  It's Ukraine!  and I am having a good time!

 Will work on a photo essay this week called "My Daily Life" and let you know when it's published--when and if I get on line.         Take care of yourselves. Do something you love.

Snow and Teaching

Dear All,

 Sunday, January 18th and I am watching our first really true snowfall pour down with large, large flakes making a veil over the plaza. We had a spring like day on Thursday and the melt of what snow we had began. Then the temperature dropped and we had ice, ice. The women and men who take care of the center, sweep new fallen snow off (there is a snow floor) and put down sand on a path on each walkway. The streets are also sanded in the center. However once you leave the center you are own your own. I have never seen a Ukrainian fall or slip (except my host mom when she was drunk). The women sometimes even run a little in their high-heeled boots!

 I finished writing up the grant I have been working on since last September; couldn't copy it or papers I need for a workshop I was doing on Friday because Zhanna had still not bought toner so went across to the library in the cultural center. They have a new copier and I had fun watching them trying to run it. First, they couldn't believe that I really understood that I wanted 15 copies each of a 6-page handout. They kept reminding me that it was 25 kopeks each. The first gal that was running off the copies hit the button for each copy. I actually kept my mouth shut!  I told you I am learning patience. Finally, the woman who normally runs it came over and entered the number 15. Nice copies but slow. I went back yesterday to run 3 copies of the grant. I ended up showing them how to load paper and fix paper jams. The only thing I can't convince anyone about is using the off key instead of pulling out the plug! Ah well.

 I presented a 2-hour workshop to about 15 English teachers on Communicative Techniques. They really enjoyed it and so did I. My women friends in Boise had sent me beautiful books to give to them and they were so overwhelmed with them. They have very few resources for activities and that is exactly what the books provided. I was asked to come to school number 3 to teach my ecology unit and that really made me happy. My goal is to reach at least 150 high school students but if I can work with more, all the better. I am also going to work with upper classmen from school number 2 about American culture especially of teens on the 30th. That will be fun too.  Next Sunday, I will facilitate a workshop on sanitary landfill to adults at an ecological seminar here in Korostyshiv put on by our office (LEAP). Natasha will thank goodness be interpreting for me.

 January is turning out to be a very full month. Tomorrow Natasha and I go to Kyiv for a 4-day PC workshop--language refresher. Natasha is like a mother hen. She wants me to do very well. I keep telling her it is not a test although I think I am going to take the proficiency evaluation again and see where I am and if I have improved. Sometimes I think I have and at others I am like "will I ever ever get this," and I am good at languages. I do understand a whole lot especially if a person speaks Russian. The mixture that the people here speak--Surchek-- I can get a lot of. I can read and write Russian well, but the speaking smoothly is tough going. I do have the disadvantage of not hearing Russian on a consistent basis except when I am with the Druhalcheks.

 I planned on renting Russian movies this next month and trying to immerse myself if them, but my landlady has temporarily thrown a monkey wrench in that. She, in her usual bombastic way barged in on Friday telling me that her daughter needed the television in my flat and that she would bring a bolshoy one for me. What could I say? Anyway she wouldn't have listened. She's rather like stereotypical landlady anywhere in the world. She had a guy bring one in yesterday afternoon while Natasha was here. It is very big and it won't fit on the buffet where I can watch it from an arm chair. Azya and Natsha had teased me about it probably being black and white. It is! It is a very old Russian model that she brought in from the village probably from another rent house or who knows.

 Wonderful Yura came over last night and worked on it. First of all I can't get most of the good channels because they are digital and the set isn't. One channel comes in color--an off blue and red and Ukrainian language--and my videos play in black and white and with no sound! I am going to let Zhanna and my regional manager handle whether or not she has to get me a good set, but this monstrosity is definitely out of here! I may end up buying a small set and I don't care.

The new PCV, Therese, and I had lunch on Sunday and then she brought beer over on Wednesday and we spent the afternoon analyzing our work and just chatting. Really a nice young woman--40, from Ohio originally, but lives in California. She is a good teacher even though she has never taught before. I think she will do fine. Spent some time maligning the guy who sold me cartridges for my printer because when I put them in, I thought they didn't fit. So bitched and dreaded going back to Zhytomer. Then when Therese came over, she looked at them, clicked them right in. My apologies sir!

 Am working on some web pages that show me in my daily routine. I hope to have them on the site next weekend. I will send my usual update and tell you all about my week in Kyiv. It will be good to see my group again. Most of them are coming in.

 Snow is not letting up, but I need to get up from here and move, clean house and pack. Going to review my homework as Natasha and I have a lesson this afternoon. She can be such a slave driver :-) I really wish all of you could meet her and her family. Like I have said before, I am very blessed. 

I love you and miss you. Take care of yourselves.

New Experiences

Dear druzbe and cemya,

 Well that's enough trying to Anglicize friends and family! I am more motivated now than ever on this language study. Just spent Monday through Thursday in Kiev with Natasha, my tutor and most of group 24 and their tutors in language refresher workshops. Although extremely frustrating at times because our teachers really pushed us, I learned a lot and realized I have come a long way even though there is a lot more to do. Our tutors learned much also and developed plans for helping us.

 Natasha, as you know, is a wonderful young woman--intelligent, wise and hard working. She is also an excellent teacher. Part of my good time was watching her become so excited and make all kinds of contacts. She picked up very quickly "networking." She almost backed out on going, but I kept pushing. She has never been in a hotel before and I had a great time watching her amazement and pleasure with our room especially the bathroom. She called it "my special room" She has now decided that she wants Yura to put in a nice new toilet like the one there. I even took a picture and printed it our for him!

 When she went to Cash and Carry, she was blown away. I don't know if you remember, but that is a huge modern supermarket that is across the street from PIGI. She said that she had to keep telling herself that she "needn't buy" any of it. She did buy one package of cookies. On Wednesday, Wini and I, took her and Wini's tutor, Svetlana, to a very nice restaurant near PC headquarters in central Kiev. We had to demand they go! Neither one had been to a restaurant before. Joel and Alice went with us. We had the best time ever! We bought a bottle of wine for the table and the service was exceptional. Natasha eats almost nothing anyway, but she asked if she could order a salad and dessert. She loves sweets. The Reprise is famous for its bakery and she got a delicious chocolate, apricot jam tort. I paid for the two of us and the bottle of wine--it came to 155 griven ($29) and I thought she was going to choke.

 On the way home on Thursday, I had to stop at PC headquarters and then we went to McDonald's because I was starving. (I never eat at McDonald's in the states, but Kiev has a great Chicken Mcmenu and the best restroom in the area.) Anyway we bought Masha a kids Happy Meal because that's what mom promised her. Of course it was cold by the time we got home, but what 4, almost 5 year old kid cares when she opens the sack and gets the toy.

 As you can see, I loved the time we spent together and the chance to share with people experiences they might never have because they live in such small towns and because they save every penny for their families and would never splurge on a restaurant or a hotel. PC reimbursed them for their travel expenses too, so a good deal for everyone.

I presented a session today (Sunday) in Korostyshiv on landfills at the conference that our office sponsored. There were over 40 people in attendance and Natasha interpreted for me. The participants were very involved and really appreciated what we did. I hope I can do more such workshops. I am being asked to teach more and more in the schools and that is very exciting for me because the most important goal of our office is to change the culture (attitudes) of people about trash, dumping, litter and polluting the environment. Just got on a roll this week and the schools are shut down for two weeks because of flu epidemic so I will start again in a couple of weeks.

 It's cold 14F, but my flat and the office are warm and I really don't feel that the weather is any worse than Idaho or Oklahoma in the winter. From the emails I have received, it seems the states may be having more snow than here. I have almost finished web pages on my daily life and will let you know when I have them up.

Well writing this has kept me putting off cleaning up my bathroom so---no more delays. Going to throw this cat off my lap and get to it.