Musings of an Ukraine Traveler

Dear Ones, 

It's a beautiful Sunday morning and will probably get pretty hot today. Yesterday it rained hard all day and was cool. The swallows are having a ball swooping in and out of the chestnut trees. I have my laundry done; all my things finally put away; have gone to the bazaar twice as I couldn't carry all the fruit I wanted. The strawberries, blueberries and cherries are wonderful. Yesterday I pitted about 2 quarts of pie cherries and managed to get juice all over the wall and my face! I am determined to make a cherry pie for the 4th of July. Brought back a pie plate as I have never seen one here. Ukrainians make small fried fruit pies called pirokies. Brought vanilla, but not almond extract so the pie may not have quite the taste I want.

 Wini and I had the plane ride from hell home. After a delightful stay with Wini's daughter, Michelle, and family in Chicago Monday night and Tuesday morning, we boarded the plane for take off at 5. Our seats were on the side, one row behind a family of 5. Those 5 consisted of 18-month old twin girls, a 3 year old and two young parents who evidently had lots of money but little sense! The twins screamed and raged until nearly midnight; the parents were demanding of the kind Dutch attendant. When the twins stopped it was the 3 year's old turn. She didn't scream and rage just kept talking. As we were deboarding, the mother says that she will be so glad to get off the plane and get in the car for Greece. I wished the Greeks and the chauffeur lots of luck! 

We had about a 3 hour layover in Schippol Airport in Amsterdam where we shopped a little, but mostly rested in their beautiful lounges--peace. When we entered the waiting area for our flight to Kyiv, we were very surprised at the few passengers. There were about 15, mostly American ex pats, and a row of about 10 Orthodox Jews from America sitting quietly in the back. Then as we started boarding, close to 50 more pretty young Orthodox Jews arrived. They were loud, shoving, but I just chucked it up to their age and perhaps their first trip. Wini and I both were looking forward to maybe speaking to some of them and finding out where they were going and why and of course a quiet trip--WRONG! 

These young men were the absolutely rudest, crudest people I have ever seen. They delayed our take off for half an hour by blocking the aisles, not stowing baggage correctly, shouting at each other, and totally ignoring the flight crew's directions. They wouldn't fasten seat belts, raise seats and trays unless specifically asked by an attendant and then sometimes just ignored them. (They were speaking Hebrew and Yiddish but were all native American speakers) During the flight they were constantly in the aisles and although they didn't eat the lunch they made it their goal I think to make the poor attendants back up those heavy meal/drink tables so one of them could go to the bathroom. Wini and I were in the row next to that and there was a line all the time in the entire aisle nearly the whole time. I thought at one time the plane would tip tail down there were so many men at our end. 

Descent into Kyiv. The men continued to go to the restroom in spite of repeated requests by the overly patient attendants. Many refused to buckle up or bring seats and tray tables up. When the wheels of the plane hit the ground, every one of them to a man unbuckled, jumped up and opened the bins. It was utter chaos as we taxied into the airport. I truly feared for my head, my life. While some men were coming forward some were coming aft to use restrooms which locked automatically. The attendants stood at the back where we were sitting and just kept repeating that the restrooms couldn't be used; that the men couldn't exit the aft doors.

 When we got to passport control the chaos continued and I was soooooooooo glad I had a Ukrainian passport. We went through that side in about 5 minutes. Baggage pickup was another scene from hell as 2 other planes landed and one of them was carrying another large contingent of the same group--from where I don't know. I found my bags quickly, pissed off one of the Jewish men when I could speak Russian and got a cart ahead of him. One of Wini's bags never showed up so while she reported it I went through the green line quickly again ahead of the mob. Vitale our driver was anxiously waiting---thank the universe--as we were over an hour and a half late. (Wini's bag was delivered to her in Gretsiv at 1:30 am Friday morning.  Good service KLM)

Exhausted and very hungry we arrived at my flat where the ever gracious and ever thoughtful Druhalchucks had prepared a wonderful "small" dinner for us. They had cleaned my flat and washed all my towels and a load of clothes I had left. They regaled us with stories of Masha and Rah-Rah and how Asya had been driven to distraction between the two of them--"like oil and water." Wini hit the bed at 9. I went back to D and took my gifts. Natasha looked absolutely stunning in the dress and "costume" (skirt, top outfit). She said that this was the first time in her life that she wouldn't have to adjust clothes to fit her. She is a perfect 8! (Thanks Joyce). They all thought of different ways to use kneeling pad.

 I had forgotten to buy batteries for the Karioke machine that I bought Masha, but Yura who got in a little after I got there immediately wired it up so that it could be plugged in and Masha became the entertainment for the evening. She has all the  moves of the hit stars! After taking care of Masha, Yura checked out his tool kit and began learning how to use the laser measuring tool. He took out a tape measure and checked the accuracy and the position of the beginning of the pulse. (Who questioned me about that?  Carol, Joyce?)

 I am looking forward to returning to work on Tuesday (tomorrow is holiday--Constitution Day). We have lots of work to do and I am excited about new projects. Going to look for some new sources of funding as PC just announced that the government has stopped funding the SPA (Small Project Assistance) grants that are kind of a life line for us volunteers.

 I want to thank everyone again for your wonderful hospitality, your love and your friendship. I was revitalized by my trip home. I love you.   Will let you know how my pie turns out!

 Happy 4th! Hope your weekend is full of fun and good food.

July 4

It is already noon here and 3 am in Boise ( I have a clock set to Boise time!). I have already made a cherry pie this morning and it looks good and I hope it eats good. I used butter instead of shortening and I don't have any almond extract (didn't think of that while home). Learning to adjust the burner on the oven was a real challenge. Once I turned it to low and it went out. No problem you say--just relight it. With my oven that isn't so easy. The door won't come all the way down because it hits the radiator so I have to hold it open usually with my arm or hip while I light it. This time too hot. I improvised and used my rolling pin to hold the door open and voila relit the dam thing. 

I have invited the Druhalchucks over today for a "traditional dinner" of fried chicken, mashed potatoes and gravy and some corn and other vegetables. Bought vanilla ice cream for pie a la mode for dessert. Have vodka and wine ready for out toasts and the second toast will be for family. The first is for friendship, the third for women and the fourth for men. After that who cares! 

The weather continues very cool and we have heavy showers every day either afternoon or evening. The gardens look like jungles. Everything is growing, everything is blooming. In the abandoned wheat fields along the road there are beautiful stretches of red poppies and larkspur everywhere. I am buying as many strawberries as I can--eating and freezing them. Bought some blueberries, but then Asya went to the forest yesterday and picked over 2 gallons of them. Of course she gave me about a liter of them.

 It's been a busy week here at the flat and at work. On Sunday, Therese took me to a touchy, feely supermarket in Zhytomer, right next to the bus station. I was in heaven. Lots of spices and stuff I can't get in Korostyshiv. I was like a kid in a candy shop. Jim and Joyce know what I mean. Sunday was Youth Day and Monday, Constitution Day so there was a huge party in the square and center Sunday night. There was an excellent band--rock--playing and of course I could hear all the music. At 10:30 I went out and watched. I could see in front of the bandstand at least 400-500 people jamming, dancing, hands in the air just in the square itself. Because of the trees I have no idea how many were in the center itself. Then at 11, there was a wonderful fireworks show. Everyone dispersed about 11:30. Great time.

 Monday was quiet in town and I spent the entire day deep cleaning, washing curtains and rearranging my living room. I had lots of energy for some reason. Tuesday was my first day back to work and Zhanna and I mostly just caught up on what had been happening. Wednesday I withdrew some of the grant monies to pay for some the parts of our project that we have completed. I love this lady at the bank BUT so typically she tells me and everyone in the bank that I have such and such thousand US dollars. Cripes. I am supposed to be living low key! The rest of our project is pretty much going to be on hold until September when students return. Right now  Zhanna is ordering the trash cans and the recycling bins from the oblast prison. I spent a day surveying the park and the streets  to determine placement of cans. Monday I will lay out the map after I consult with different members of LEAP.

 I don't know if I mentioned that the city in conjunction with financial aid from the sculptor is building a wonderful lake in the park. They are doing it right and I learned that what they are doing is recreating the same lake that was there before built by the Polish prince who founded the town in the late 1800s. The old walking paths around the lake have been laid out. The paths are lined with lights which have been in disuse for about 15 years. It would be great if they could be fixed, but don't know if that is possible or not. The pond by the dance pavilion that was basically a sewer covered with algae has been drained. Once it dries out workmen will remove all the junk dumped there and it too will be restored. I haven't heard, but it would be wonderful if they reestablished the hanging gardens on the wall behind it. 

Will wrap this up. Want to say again, how great it was to see you. Rah Rah and I send greetings and love. 

Priviet! 

Yes this was a slow week, but good things are happening. The grant money for our project was in my account when I got home so the first thing I did was pay Zhanna (LEAP office) for the materials for the environmental poster contest and for the new wall units and files. I about died of embarrassment at the bank when I asked for the money. This really sweet bright cashier who always calls me to the head of the line. Then she told me very loudly that I had 3200 USD in my account and did I want all of it. Ukrainians can convert that very quickly into grivna so I am sure they were confirmed that I was a rich American. Yesterday, when I needed to draw out 4200 grivna, Asya and Natasha went with me and made sure that we got it in private. That money is going to pay for the new recycling bins. Later we will get the trash cans for the parks and the streets.

Met with biology teacher, Tamara Ivanivich, who does so much for the organization. She and her students have just set up an ecology cabinet (room). What a great job they have done. They have researched and illustrated the ecological problems in Ukraine, in the oblast and in Korostyshiv. They have photo displays of endemic plants and animals. They also have maps drawn showing the good wells in the town. Lots more, but anyway she and I will work on a grant to further their work and we will work with a biology teacher in Boise to do some exchanging of information and technology.

 The bazaar is alive with cherries, strawberries, raspberries, blueberries and blackberries. I have such a small freezer but I keep eating and freezing as much as I can. I wish you could see the abundance and the color. Cauliflower and bay leaf (fresh) and dill are everywhere, too. I eat tomatoes at every meal. They are coming up from the south. 

Going to Kyiv tomorrow to buy my ticket for Sudak where I will be teaching environment the 1st two weeks of August. Am spending time preparing my lessons for that and a small camp at Gretisiv this next Saturday.

 It's been a little warmer, but not hot hot yet. The rain seems to be tapering off and that made for a beautiful Ivan  Kapula Day. I think that this is one of my favorite Ukrainian festivals. The dancing and singing, the flowers. Check out my web site for last year's pictures.   

Will close for now.  Love you all. 

Z'drasbyche!

 It's a beautiful Monday morning and I am recuperating from my first weekend of Ukrainian camping. Wini had invited me to her small town (5000) to take part in an ecological camp out. The camp was part of her NGO's project to raise awareness of the problems of dumping and litter. I had a wonderful time probably because I didn't sleep at the camp! This old body just can't take the hard ground any more. The young people loved it. Wini and I and her tutor Svetlana walked all the way back to the house Friday and Saturday evening and then back in the mornings. It was a good hike--about 2 miles each way--over some pretty rough ground. On Friday we were coming back very late--about 11--so Wini and I were using our flashlights. We freaked out a few men standing in front of a bar. Most Ukrainians have never seen a flashlight. I told you they can all see in the dark!

I have some great pictures and will get them on site with the full story as soon as possible. It was a beautiful setting on the river, great food, wonderful, gentle caring people. 

Although Wini doesn't have a shower or hot water, I did heat water and take a bucket bath Sunday morning--thank goodness because I had the usual steaming hot, no air bus rides home. Bus was packed but I had a seat as close as possible to the one small window in the back that was open. I would rather freeze than boil on the bus, but summer time there is no option sometime. On the marshrutka back from Kyiv last week, I royally pissed off a lady in back of me because I kept the window open, I kid you not, a half an inch. I always make sure that I sit next to the window that opens. I and the driver were the only ones awake. There is no air! no oxygen! Ah, the joys of traveling in Ukraine.

 When I got home, I found Natsha has washed my load of clothes that I hadn't been able to do because of two days and nights of solid hard rain on Wednesday and Thursday. What a family! 

This week I will be doing the usual at work--preparing lessons and looking for money for our projects. At home I am going to make at least one pie. Therese brought me a 3 pack of Crisco back from the states and I have fruit everywhere!

 Will close and send you all my thoughts and regards. Enjoy the summer.