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Dear Friends and
Colleagues,
The end of 2004 approaches quickly as does the end of my service.
Tomorrow night (31st) I will spend the evening with my Ukrainian family
(my tutor and neighbor). We will decorate a tree; eat a feast at 11:00
pm; at midnight we will toast with champagne and open presents. Then we
will walk to the plaza to the yolka, the large decorated tree in the
center. There will be fireworks and we will walk through the center with
the other families. It is rather nice.
I have many reasons to be grateful for the past year and among them was
the opportunity to travel both in Ukraine and abroad. In October, I flew
to Sonthofen Germany, about 2 hours south of Munich, for the European
Branch of the ACA's annual conference. Then in November, I traveled with
a group to India where we spent two weeks in the state of Rajasthan and
some sights in Delhi and of course the Taj Mahal in Agra.
I have finally finished putting up the web pages for that trip. If you
have time during the holidays maybe you can check it out.
www.fluidlight.com/collins
I have a short trip to Krakow planned for next week and then no more
except for in Ukraine. I will be closing down my work here in
Korostyshiv and my other PC obligations by mid April. My plan is to fly
home the last weekend of April. I will be bringing my bilingual cat, Rah
Rah. Should be an adventure for both of us.
Hope this New Year is one of renewal, health and happiness for each of
you.
Zdroviya!
Dear All,
We returned from Krakow Friday morning, the 7th, Ukrainian Christmas.
The Drahalchuks had lunch for me immediately and then I went back for
dinner that night. Christmas dinner was like New Years except it didn't
start at 11 pm. But it did last for almost 4 hours and I left early. Not
only was I so full from all the dishes and toasts, but I was exhausted
from the 22 hour train ride (more on that later). They invited me to go
to Masha's godmother's house in a village north of here for Saturday
dinner. I declined at first, but they talked me into going and I did.
The family was delightful. The father had built the home with large
rooms and it was heated by a pech. The kitchen was out in their old
small house. We began eating about noon. The traditional 12 different
dishes were on the table-bowls for each end of the table. There were 13
of us around the table. The eating and the toasting lasted until 5 five!
We had 3 different kinds of cake and one must "probo" try
every dish. Then the mom gave me a bag filled with apples, home made
cottage cheese, milk and sour cream. Two weeks of eating like this is
mind boggling. Glad I had the break in Krakow.
Wini, Alice, Sherry and I left Kyiv at 8 pm on the 1st on a train for
Lviv. The train had no heat and of course typically Ukrainian no one
complained. it was a miserable night. Thank goodness it wasn't below
freezing. We got into Lviv at 6 in the morning. A couple of Polish kids
directed us to a marshrutka that took us to the border where we walked
across after going through customs to the Polish town of Premelzy. From
there we took a bus to Medzy and caught a train to Krakow. The Polish
train was beautiful, fast and full. The ride was about 4 hours. The heat
was off in our compartment and immediately the Polish young man
complained and it was fixed right away! We almost couldn't get off in
Krakow because there were so many people getting on!
The first night we stayed in a hostel near the center, Rynek Glowny, the
largest square in Europe. Very, very nice except it was on the 6th floor
and carrying our back packs up that far was tiring. The center was alive
with people, natives and many tourists. New Year and Christmas
decorations were still up and stayed up through Little Christmas (Jan
7). Monday through Wednesday night we stayed at an apartment that Alice
had rented for us. It was a quick bus ride to the center.
We had wonderful meals at every restaurant; we visited what was once the
Jewish Ghetto and saw the Eagle Pharmacy and the Schindler's factory
(Schindler's List). We did not get to see inside. It is now expanded and
an electrical factory. There is a little piece of the wall left, but we
couldn't find it. Think we went the wrong way. That night we went to a
live jazz club--very nice.
The next day on the 4th we went to Owiecem and Briziene (Aushwitz
and Birkenau). I had not realized that nearly all the German death and
work camps were in southeastern Poland, near Krakow. It was raining
hard, the wind was blowing and cold and all of us felt that it was
appropriate for us to feel just a tiny bit of what these millions of
human beings must have suffered. I was especially moved by the long
walk--almost 3 kilometers from the gate of Birkenau to the International
Monument. At the gate the prisoners were unloaded from the cattle cars,
selection made of those who would go to the barracks to work or be
experimented on until they died and those who walked that 3 kilometers
to the gas chambers and the crematoriums. I will put a few pictures of
the camp on my web site and hope you can grasp as I had never done how
vast it was.
On the 5th we toured parts of Wawel (Vavel) Castle and the Cathedral,
the center of Polish culture. Just the sections we visited took almost 4
hours and we only went to two sections with a quick walk through of the
Cathedral. That night we attended a concert by a small string orchestra
in a small church at the foot of Wawel Hill. The musicians were young,
extremely skilled and filled the nave of the church with the most
beautiful music. I couldn't help but think about the fact that
their great grandparents might have been among those who worked as
slaves or died in the camps.
On Thursday, the 6th, we toured the national art museum and then Sherry
and I went to the szopki exhibition. You will have to wait to see the
pictures, but they were amazing. They are models of cathedrals that have
nativity scenes, the Polish dragon, dancers; etc. Many have animated
characters. I am so glad to have seen them. There is so much more to see
so I plan on coming back someday. Maybe one of you will come with me. At
the present time Krakow is very inexpensive.
We departed Krakow at 1 pm that afternoon on the Polish train to Kyiv.
What a difference. There are only 3 people to a coupe. There is plenty
of room to hang clothes. There is a place for trash, a sink and running
water; a small cupboard with a mirror; bottles of water; bed linens,
towel and soap (free!) and the bathroom is clean and has toilet paper,
water and paper towels. Passengers can regulate their own heat, lights
and windows. In the morning we were brought a very good croissant and
coffee. Perhaps the only disadvantage is the 3 hours it takes to change
the wheels at the border. To prevent the Germans from moving their
troops and equipment easily into Ukraine and from there to Russia, the
Soviets laid narrow gauge tracks all across Ukraine and Russia. These
have not been changed since the war. Thus each train entering Ukraine
must be jacked up, the wheels pulled out and narrow gauge wheels put on.
It's Ukraine!
The trip to Poland is my last out of country as the 90 day deadline
nears. As I have said before I am very, very lucky to have had this
opportunity. I will come back to Europe. Getting here is the biggest
expense. Once you are here, there are many inexpensive places to see and
inexpensive transportation.
Everyone is back to work or school tomorrow and I have quite a bit to
do. I am also preparing for my language proficiency test in February and
hope to do well on it. By the way, I was able to read and communicate
fairly well in Krakow as Polish is very much like Russian and Ukrainian!
To many people there speak Russsian because of the years of occupation.
Hope you have a good day. Love you and miss you.
Happy
Old New Year!
Yeah! Friday, one week after Jan 7, little Christmas, Ukrainians
celebrate old new year! This time singers come to the door, throw wheat
on the floor and sing songs for money or candy. The tree in the center
is still up and I love it. Think it will come down tomorrow. We will
see.
I went into PC office in Kyiv today to work on a PC project and to use
fast Internet connection to look up some material for a grant I am
writing. At work I have been focusing on getting the application ready.
The biology teacher at Gymnasium 5 and her ecology club students wrote
it up and translated it into English. They did an excellent job. I am
really hoping they get the money. Therese, the group 25 PC here is going
to sponsor it since I will be leaving. I may have told you that Tamara
(teacher) and club had set up a wonderful ecology cabinet (center) last
spring. During their summer camp they did a lot of studying and
surveying sources of contamination of the river. This fall I suggested
they try to get a SPA (Small Project Assistance) grant for computer
system and some water testing equipment. I gave them the outline and
they went to work setting up a project with goals, objectives, bids, the
whole smear. I am really proud of them. We will send the first draft in
for review this Friday. Keep your fingers crossed.
Had one of my "wish I had a video camera evenings" on Tuesday.
I told you that the woman from the village had given me fresh dairy
products including milk. Asya insisted I use the milk only for cooking
although it looked good to me. Tried to think of what to make to use up
almost 2 liters of milk. Thought about banana pudding and was trying to
find cookies similar to vanilla wafers when the light bulb went off and
I said, "Banana Cream Pie." Couldn't remember my recipe
exactly so went on line--success. But alas--how does one make good
meringue without cream of tartar and an electric mixer. Oh the wonders
of the Internet. Found out I could substitute white vinegar. Bez
problema. The whipping was the slapstick. I am whipping madly with a
fork in a shallow bowl ( no really deep ones here) and dancing around
the kitchen doing it. I had meringue on the cabinet, on the floor, on me
but I had meringue!
Baked my crust on the outside of the pie plate BUT when I went to take
it our of oven which I had propped open with my rolling pin, the pin
slipped and I let go not wanting a seared arm. The pie plate tipped up
the crust slid off--whole--until I tried to pick it up at which point an
piece broke out. Made that pie anyway and it was damned good eating!
Therese, Kirstan and Natasha all said so.
Studying every day as I would like to do well on the Language
Proficiency Exam. All of our group 24 are getting very excited about our
COS (Closing of Service) Conference which will be in the Carpathians at
a nice hotel. It will be our last time together as a group and we are
very close. We will receive special shirts marking our service here. We
got to vote on white or orange lettering. Don't know yet but my money is
on the orange.
Worked on the web pages for Krakow this weekend and will have them
finished by next weekend. Want to try to get pictures up of the holidays
too.
Well it is 9 pm here and early afternoon there. We had sun, a skiff of
snow and about 34 today. Know each of the parts of US is having very
strange weather, but hope whatever it is you are content and at peace.
Dobrai Vecher!
Yes it is evening and I don't know where this past week went. I assisted
an ecological group from school number 5 to write a grant; did my usual
this and that at the office. Now that I am close to leaving it seems my
coordinator is coming up with a lot for me to do.
Also I have been sorting through my things to prepare what needs
shipping home. So far I have 5 small boxes mostly journals, pictures,
gifts I have received from Ukrainians. At first I thought I would send
them home by MEEST, the Ukrainian company but it is way too complicated
and more expensive in the long run. So now I am just going to put them
in mail. If I do it this next week or two they should be home about the
time I am.
I am also making lists of who will get what from my kitchen, bath and
living room; who will get clothes I am not bringing back, etc, etc. It
doesn't seem like much until I start listing out all I have.
I am in two PC Working Groups--one for HIV/AIDS and one for Youth
Development. Both of those are also taking a lot of my time right now
and deadlines are right before we leave for our COS conference which
begins next Thursday. Wini and I have bought a coupe (4 places) and so
far one other person is going with us. It is an overnight train to
Slavske which is south of Lviv in the Carpathian Mountains. We are
staying at a nice hotel and the resort is supposed to have good skiing.
Everyone in our group (24) that I have talked with is really looking
forward to getting away from our sites and just being together again. At
the conference we will be going over issues like resettlement monies;
tickets for home; our future jobs, etc, etc and take our language
proficiency exams. So I have to get ready for that too.
I have all the information now about getting Rah Rah home and I am not
too worried. Seems pretty straight forward. I still have to buy a soft
sided carrier but I will do that in Kyiv in February.
We have about 3 inches of snow and not too much ice. It's hovering
around freezing but really not a bad winter so far. Got a few more
things to do tonight so will try to get on line and get this sent out.
Love you much.
Dobrai Utro,
Sunday morning and I actually slept in a little and Rah let me. After
doing my Tai Chi, I walked three blocks to the mayor's office to pick up
my laptop which my coordinator, Zhanna had used for a power point
presentation for a training on green tourism. Really enjoyed the walk up
and back as winter has really, finally come to Ukraine. No more of this
spitting some snowflakes and 3 inches of black ice. On Wednesday, it
began snowing big flakes and continued for almost 36 hours. We have
over a foot of snow, the most I have seen since I have been here.
Pathways were shoveled wide everywhere, the streets plowed and a snow
floor left so that we citizens can walk safely and with no hassle. It's
delightful to see the street cleaners all marching down the center with
their shovels on their shoulders and singing! They are all women except
for one. Mom's and dads are pulling sleds everywhere with a young child
on board usually holding a shopping bag. Sometimes the sleds just have
groceries from the bazaar or the stores.It is snowing again today.
Looked rather like dandruff floating when it started this morning. It is
still floating but a little bigger.
It's cold. It has stayed about -10 C (14 F) during the day and -15 to
-20 at night. I have the clothes for it and my apartment is quite comfy.
Remember I said that I had already packed some boxes. Well I had put my
heavy snow boots in a box--not packed really--so had to get them out.
For a while I thought they were not going to get any use. While I am
working on this Rah Rah has figured out how to dig out peanuts from the
bottom box (none are sealed until I take them to post office and they
check what is in them for customs). He loves the damn things and
crumbles them into a million pieces. I am also letting my refrigerator
defrost. The build up of ice is terrific especially since I keep mine on
the cold side and that's not typical Ukrainian. They believe that food
must be eaten at room temperature--not hot or cold and yet they love,
love, love ice cream!--warm beer and no ice in soda. Back to
defrosting--it's the old process. I have to pull out the refrigerator to
unplug it then scrap and chop ice off without breaking the freon pipes.
Today, I can just let it thaw naturally as I have put all my food in the
snow on the balcony. Must bring it in before it freezes though.
Did no work on my holiday web site except for naming pictures, but maybe
before I leave for Slavske and COS conference. For those of you using
maps, Slavske (Clabcbke) is southwest of Lviv on the way to
Uzhagord. I borrowed Therese's larger backpack, the one I took to India
as I plan on actually taking a dress for the big farewell dinner. I will
put on some make up and maybe look more Ukrainian.
Still studying for my language test. Natasha is a great teacher and
besides regular lessons is having me come over every evening where we
talk in Russian and the whole family has to ask me questions in Russia.
Masha is having a ball teaching me! It really is easy to understand from
a child. She flows back and forth seamlessly in Ukrainian and Russian
and now quite a bit of English. How wonderful.
If any of you are interested in knowing more about Ukraine, I would
recommend Borderlands by Ann Reid, Lenin's Tomb by David
Remnick and now I am reading Singing on the Heavy Side of the World by
John Deever. They are all easy reads. The last one is by the first PC
volunteer in Zhytomyr in 1993. Boy do I have it easy compared to him. He
almost never had hot water; food was scarce for every one and many foods
like sugar and butter were rationed. A lot of the emotional stress, the
attitudes were the same as now and yes singing is still so important for
Ukrainians.
Going to go check the "ice box" and vacuum up all the crushed
peanuts. I wish you a satisfying week, a happy week. I probably won't
send an update until I return on the 8th.
Love you
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