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One only has to see this imposing
volkzal (railway station) to get some idea of the size and style or
architecture in Lviv. It was so massive and imposing that I finally gave
up trying to take many pictures. I just bought a lot of postcards. This
is a city of hundreds of churches dating from the 10th through the 18th
centuries. The Communists never made any inroads here and Lviv never
suffered the bombings of central and eastern Ukraine some say because of
conciliatory welcome of the Germans who they feared less than the
Bolsheviks. Lviv is considered the seat of Ukrainian nationalism,
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Wini Kissick and Alice Brew don't take
up much space on this gigantic black granite monument to Shevkenko, poet
and the talith depicting Ukrainian rise to freedom.
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The Central Plaza of old town is quite
beautiful and clean. Like Ivano-Frankisv there are almost no street
vendors or kiosks. Modern stores and restaurants abound as do telephones
and ATMS. This is very much a European city.
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Museums for every period, every
century can be found in the center. This is from 17th century. Notice
the tile pech on the left. This type of stove still heats many Ukrainian
homes very efficiently. I could not get enough of the museums. I saw
large illustrated hymn books from the 16th century, instruments,
clothing and art work. Learned too how Ukrainians use their embroidery
of rugs to trace a family genealogy. I want to go back. Two days was not
enough.
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You are looking at a 10th century
Armenian Catholic Church. Many peoples invaded or immigrated to Ukraine
because of its strategic central location and its seaports. They left
the evidence of their faith behind in huge cathedrals. Most are still in
use. This one is not.
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This is the cloister of the Armenian
Church. I stood looking in thinking about the people that strolled on
these stones, that knelt at this grotto. For over 1000 years this small
garden has existed. This was the beginning of the Middle Ages, the Dark
ages as they were called. Yes the Church did destroy much it considered
profane from the Mongols, the Sycthians, the Tartars, yet the monks and
nuns preserved so much within walls like these of what would become not
only Ukrainian culture but Western culture, that I am gratful.
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A partial shot of a huge mural
depicting Lviv in about 12-13th century. Some of the churches are still
standing. I received a good scolding from one of the attendants when she
saw my flash go off. She was telling me I needed to pay to take
pictures. I just pretended I didn't understand. In the next room with
all the musical instruments and knights' armor and weapons, I was
invited to take pictures!
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Back where we began with a picture of
me this time. I will bring the many beautiful postcards I bought of this
very, very fascinating city when I come home.
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