Musings of an Ukraine Traveler

Beauty

It is that time between winter and spring. No more pure snow. Brown ice and packed snow have no sun to reflect. Everyone's eyes are down and no light brightens the Slavic blue and Tarter brown eyes that flit my way. Taxis and marshurtkas dirtier than the mud they roar through, gather all the Ukrainians they can crowd in--only 70 Kopeks.

Houses that survived the wars snuggle at the foot of Soviet style apartments.

Outward appearances are often deceptive. Balconies let in fresh air and are used for drying clothes.

Communist block-style apartments fill the dull gray sky. They fill but do not stretch the eye or heart. Their unlit, dank, urine soaked stairs offend the untrained nose. Playground toys rusting in the parks wait for children's laughter. Ugly--yes, terribly so, but that hope that gestates in the Ukrainian heart shows its face to me ever so shyly at first. Strong, handsome male faces; striking model-beauty of young women; fur and leather coats and hats of every hue--deep forest green, sable, mink, fox--treasured and carefully preserved and worn with style, grace and courage. Red mittens and blue scarves adorn black-clad Babushkas. Infants and toddlers so bundled in mixed and joyful colors that a fall would never injure.

Litter and snow are swept up and off yards and streets with whisk brooms and wheel barrows. Mud is shoveled off highways by strong, enduring women.

Spires and domes of ancient churches that escaped allied bombs stretch up.

Ukraine will bloom. The wind and all I see promise it.

Women, young and old sweep and shovel mud and litter from streets, apartment walks and hall ways.

This toddler and his beautiful mom give me a little of their time.

This church like all the churches in Vila Terska are being refurbished and restored to their original beauty. Notice the trolley wires.

Flowers on the Chernobyl memorial--real and metal. Ukrainians do not forget.

Look carefully on top of the nest. Spring brought the stork back to this nest that I had watched so carefully during my walk in the snow.

The girls' volleyball team run past the Mig and cows eating the spring grass.