Musings of an Ukraine Traveler

Letters Home: February 2005

Dobray Vecher!

Well we rolled into the Kyiv train station about 10 this morning after boarding our train in Slavske at 8:30 last night. As usual didn't sleep well although I was in a coupe with Wini, Steve and Shane. So by the time I got to Korostyshiv at noon today I was pretty beat. Ashya fixed me lunch and Masha entertained me with all her new dances and routines for doing numbers. She has started reading English on her own sounding out the words! Amazing child.

Group 24 met in the Carpathian mountains at the ski resort of Slavske on Wednesday, February 3, for our final conference to prepare us for leaving Ukraine and our service in the Peace Corps. The setting was spectacular and I will have pictures up by the end of the week. The meetings were relaxed and detailed to the point that I feel very much more relaxed about fulfilling all my obligations even though the paper work is as daunting getting out as it was getting in, but that is government. The food was excellent--the best we have ever had at a conference. It was not sanatorium food! Most of all the camaraderie was awesome. Most of my group (24), I had seen at least once or twice since training 2 years ago, but some I had not. Since this was the last time that most of us will see each other at least in Ukraine, we made the most of being together. I must tell you I will miss this most generous, courageous group of people more than I can express. Some people skiied, sledded, snow boarded; others played board games or poker way into the night. Always we talked, we shared our lives here and our hopes and dreams for the future.

The next 3 months are going to be filled with preparing reports, getting medical and dental exams, closing up our work so the time will fly. Many of us including me will be leaving early. I have asked for April 30 and will most probably get it. Many of the younger ones are going to travel through the month of May before going home. At least 3 people are staying--permanently--not as PC volunteers. They have found work, love and friends that they want to continue. Two of our young guys married Ukrainian girls after our first year in service and will be bringing them home to the states. One young man will marry his Ukrainian girl friend and as soon as she finishes her masters in the spring they too will be heading home.

I have all the info I need to get Rah Rah home and am looking forward to his meeting all of you. I am sure Beauty will have to get him in line but once he learns about the outdoors and can actually touch the grass and claw trees, I think he will be very happy and probably become a little calmer. I definitely have to bring him home. Every time I leave now, he doesn't eat for a day or two. Don't know if any of this makes sense. I am very tired and very emotional. When I was preparing to leave you all to come here and was feeling the separation so deeply I never imagined the reverse would happen too.

Going to get myself to bed and catch up on sleep now. Have a wonderful day.


Good morning everyone,

I know you will all be up in 2-3 hours. I just got back from the store to pick up a few things because I chickened out on going to the bazaar this morning. There was a sharp wind and it was snowing again. Last year there wasn't much to winter here in Ukraine. This year is different. Up until Friday the temperature had been hovering at -20 C or about 0-6 F for over two weeks. Today is Walrus Day and we were going to walk down to the lake to watch all the brave souls (fools) jump into the lake. It has begun to warm up a little but still below freezing. Schools are having a hard time keeping classrooms warm and grippe (flu) has hit very hard so all the schools in Zhytomyr and Korostyshiv are now in a two week quarantine--no classes.

I was a little disappointed because I had been teaching classes on drugs/alcohol and tobacco during the week and was on a roll. Now the teachers will not be able to have me in as they will have to catch up to their required material. Yesterday, Therese, Kirstan and I went to Zhytomyr yesterday to meet at the warden's apartment with all the other volunteers in our oblast. (A warden is a PCV who is responsible for contacting a group of PCVs in case there is an emergency evacuation, etc). We had lunch at a nice restaurant and went to the new supermarket  Da Store. They are a chain from Germany and are pretty much like an American one. The 7 of us went a little ape shit buying stuff we can't get in the bazaar or in the stores in our towns. Besides we actually could touch and had many brands to choose from. Vinnytsia has two of them, but this one is even better.

Must tell you a bus story. This has happened several times but I never remember to tell you. On our way to Zhytomyr, the bus pulls into a filling station. Before it pulls up to the pump, everyone has to get off and move to the other side of the station to a waiting area. After the tank is filled, the driver pulls the bus over to the waiting area and all the passengers get on. It's always amazing to me that busses and marshrutkas will pull over in the middle of a trip and fill up. Americans are so used to drivers doing it ahead of time. As far as emptying out the bus, I know and appreciate it is a safety factor especially as nearly all Ukrainian men light up a cigarette the minute they step out of a bus.

Preparing slowly but methodically for departure. Besides getting packages ready to send, I am deciding on who gets what of kitchen utensils, household goods, etc. The new PCV, Kirstan will move into her own apartment April 1st so plan on giving her most of it. Drahalchucks want and are insisting on taking me to the airport. I protested that it is so early, but they politely told me to shut up; end of subject. I am very grateful. It will be so much easier handling Rah and all my baggage. I am going to give a party (at a restaurant) for all my friends here to say goodbye. I don't know if I have mentioned it or not, but it is a Ukrainian custom to give your own birthday or any other party. It will be fun for me to do.

I got pictures of the holidays up on the web site. It's called Holiday Celebrations.  Enjoy.  Love, hugs and wishes for warmth, and happiness. 


Za Darobia    ( Good Health)

What a week weather wise. It started warming up which meant the snow started melting BUT it also kept right on snowing, very wet, sometimes rain every day usually all day and far into the night. That meant there were huge, I mean deep and wide pools of icy water trapped on the surface and on the roads. It was truly uzhashno--a mess! Then on Wednesday night a water main broke so the entire town was without water and heat for 36 hours (heat is boiling water pumped to the apartments! Glad it had warmed up because the temp in the apartment wasn't bad and my little heater kept me comfy. Fool that I am though, I had not filled up water jugs from the last outage several months ago like every good Ukrainian does. So I had some for flushing but not enough and I needed to wash dishes. That meant a trip to the spring with two 5 liter bottles--down the icy, slushy hills. I made it without a mishap thanks to my florescent green yak trax. Didn't have to go back and I filled up extra bottles as soon as the water came back on!

Not a lot of work at office and no teaching since the schools were closed all week and will be closed this week. Did work on things to be mailed home. I had 6 small boxes packed and labeled and Natasha took me to po to check on process. The one and only clerk who handles packages told us that we had to use PO boxes so I shelled out the money for them; that I had to fill out forms in triplicate for each box listing all the contents of each in Ukrainian AND she didn't like the looks of the packing peanuts, but maybe and of course bring them open to the PO. Also told me I couldn't send magazines in box. They had to be mailed in heavy envelope--from the PO. Bought one of those. After Natasha translated all my lists and we filled out two forms for two boxes, she read the back of the form which is in English and French. I could actually read the French! We both read that the items list had to be in the language of the country to which they were being sent. So we went back. She gave the regulations book to Natasha and said Ok fill it out in English, but she can't ship the lotion in the box. It's against the US regulations to ship cosmetics into the country and lotion is cosmetics!  Anyway I have 4 bright yellow boxes weighing less than 10 KG (20 pounds) ready to ship this week by SAL. It will take two months so they should be there about the time I am. I am saving two boxes to ship later by air of last minute things.

Natasha is making a movie of me in my apartment, job, town etc for me to bring home. It has been fun making it and I think you will enjoy it. Therese and Kirsten were over Friday and Saturday night for movies and will probably come over tonight for another one or a game of scrabble. I picked up about 11 videos from friends in Lviv and have to return them before April 1st.

Well, it's 9 in Boise and 10 in the midwest so you may be ready to read this. It's time for my supper and Rah Rah's so he is looking up at me with that pitiful meow, meow. Oh the life of a cat!

Love you all. Keep warm


Chaslevuie!  (Happiness)

It is still winter here although not the below freezing weather we had for a while, it is still cold and it snows a little every day. Thankfully the icy pools are gone and streets are pretty well cleared. I had more work than I thought and was glad of it. But I did finish up the reports on my litter reduction project and Therese and I finished up writing the grant for Gymnasium #5. Tomorrow Therese and I will go there to see the new ecology center and talk to the kids about the water testing project that the youth ecological club has developed and for which we helped them apply for the grant. I surely hope they get it as they wrote a well developed plan for analyzing the water of a hundred water sources here in town and in 5 villages that is so much needed. Got some flack from the PC grant director who is a total idiot anyway about ordering the testing kits from Russia.

I am eager for you to see the video that Yura and Natasha are making. Not only do they have me hamming it up in the apartment and the office, but they have beautiful shots of the center and the park and it is set to music. They are going to wait until spring when the trees leaf out and finish it. I finished putting up the web pages of our COS conference. Really going to miss these friends, these wonderful men and women. The first big group picture was done by PC staff. It really is a good one.    www.fluidlight.com/collins

Pam, who knows me only too well, asked me how many times I had packed and re packed my bags. Well I have lost count and that includes packing and re packing the boxes. I began sorting and separating  what I was going to bring back and what I was going to leave the beginning of December right after I got back from India. I packed my red duffel bag with my summer and traveling clothes and souvenirs from India and gave a lot of clothes away. Because I know how long it takes to do anything in Ukraine, I planned on what I was going to mail and Asya began checking for me at the PO in the middle of January. I told you last week about having to rewrite forms, buy different boxes and pulling out newsletter and lotions. Well that was not the end of the story.

Since Natasha has been off work every afternoon for the past two weeks (no school because of quarantine) she has made it her mission to get the boxes mailed. On Tuesday we took two of the re packed boxes back to the PO, with the 3 forms per box done in English this time. I have spread out the books among the 4 boxes so they will all be under 5 kg (11pds). She takes one look and says, "No, you can't put books and photos with anything else. They must be packed separately." Then she starts saying that she thinks I can't send CDs or my Walkman and on and oh. She looks for the rule book--they only have a page or two of it. She calls the oblast PO to verify on the books. Then when Natasha asks her if she asked about the Walkman and CD, she says no, but she can't call back because she has used the allotted call to Zhytomyr! Says I have to send each of the other things in its own box! That could mean 20-25 small boxes and a hell of a lot of expense. After an hour of this I am so angry I am fighting back tears. Angry because they don't really know anything and don't have the regulations; angry at the stupidity of it; angry that she hadn't said a word when the list was in Ukrainian about the books.

Natasha got me home and kept telling me, " not to cry. We will ask Zhanna. Surely PC can help." I waited until the next day, then pulled everything out of the boxes and the suitcase. I rearranged 3 boxes to contain only books and photographs and two with only clothes (they will mail clothes no problem); packed all the other stuff in the suitcase. I really don't want to mail my clothes and most of the souvenirs are ceramic or glass and I think they are really libel to break in the suitcase and I may have gone over weight in it. I did email PC and the guy in charge of shipping is meeting with me Friday. I might be able to send the stuff out of the Kyiv office. Anyway I am waiting. It takes 2 months for boxes to get to US so I wanted to have them on their way around the 1st week of March.

Yesterday morning Natasha, Yura and I took the 3 book boxes to the PO. No forms this time as they are not required for books! Natasha had checked with them on Friday and she said they greeted her like family. Told her they had the stamps and were all ready. Yeahhhh! There was a long line as usual and only one woman of the 3 was actually waiting on people--normalna! But the line did move along in about 30 minutes. I weighed the boxes in the meantime--all under 5 kg. When it's our turn, the clerk starts asking where the stamps are for the boxes--cost 93 griven (17$) for each. Nobody knows. Even calm, nonplussed Ukrainian Natasha almost lost it at that point. After about 10 minutes they found the "stamps" a bar code that they have to order in advance. As the lady is taping the boxes (all boxes have to be brought in open) she tells Natasha and me that when I bring in the rest not to tape the bottom and sides. That they have to have official PO tape! I said aloud, " How the fuck can I keep the boxes together if I can't tape them." If there is one English word Ukrainians understand it is "fuck." They may not think the American is so nice anymore and you know that I don't give a . . . .   Anyway the books and photos are mailed. The books are my journals and books about the places I have traveled.

I know you are looking forward to more PO stories. Next installment next week.

Good morning and have a cup of good brewed coffee for me!

 

                                                                 


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