Musings of an Ukraine Traveler

Letters Home   March 2005

Za prazdinkom everyone!

International Women's Day is a big holiday in Ukraine and all of Europe. Wish it was in US. Yesterday was a holiday for state workers and today most everything else is closed or working on partial staff so women could have either day off. I have had so far a Black Russian, 2 glasses of Champagne, 2 shots of vodka and a lemon cello (Italian vodka drink)--cake and candy; a wonderful brunch at the Druhalchuks; received a beautiful scarf from Lena and a gorgeous cross stitch Greek design from Natasha.  A good day. My heat was off from yesterday until this evening. No phone line since last night until about 4 today. It has not stopped snowing since last Friday night. We have at least a foot and a half of new snow.

Went into Kyiv on Thursday to mail another box and to spend weekend helping Wini get ready for Alice's birthday party on Saturday. The post office story is not much different from what happened here in Korostyshiv. I went to a branch next to PC headquarters. I have mailed things to states from there before--but new rules. Now all international mail (packages, registered documents, large mailing envelopes) must go through the central post office in Maidan Square. After waiting in line for about 40 minutes behind two guys from Poland on Thursday, I gave up when I saw them pull up about 200 small packages that the clerk had to process. Think about this. Kyiv is a city of 2.7 million people and all international mail must go through ONE clerk. First, she must check the contents; then she gives you the customs forms to fill out. After you fill them out, you get back in line and she hand writes a record of numbers on any seals; posts the information on the computer. Seals the package( or envelope) with tape; seals the custom form on the parcel; takes the parcel to the back room then takes your money. She is very efficient and patient even if the system is inefficient!

I went back with Wini on Friday afternoon. After waiting in line for about 20 minutes, the clerk checked the contents of my box; asked me a few questions and gave me the forms--4 of them. I thought, " Piece of cake" I had filled them out so many times in Korostyshiv. Got back in line for about 10 minutes; gave her forms and she says, "Nyet" You can't use an office address and the information must be in Russian! What else could I do. I sat back down and filled out the four forms again in Russian and prayed that I spelled everything correctly--which I didn't but she corrected them for me. Then I took the box to another clerk who sealed the box; brought it back to the first clerk and she completed the process as above--1 and a half hours!  I will mail nothing else. If I can't get it in a my suitcases, I will pay for extra luggage! Should be just as cheap and a hell of a lot easier.

On Saturday, the snow really blew and came down. It was definitely chilli weather and that is what Wini and I made Saturday morning; we also had tacos and bean dip. About 6 people showed up for the party and we had a great time. Everyone had written poems for Alice--even people who couldn't come. We talked politics, cross cultural issues--a lot of stuff and laughed so much. Alice's host mom came as did her LCF( language teacher from training).

The next morning (Sunday) I headed out for Korostyshiv, but no marshrutkas nor buses were going because of the roads. 3 hours later I showed back up at Wini's. The 3 of us spent the day reading, playing cards and eating leftover chilli which was a perfect way to spend a cold wintery day. Got home yesterday, Monday, about noon. Therese had me over for curry soup for lunch and then i just lit my oven; turned on my little heater and curled up to finish Angels and Demons, Great book.

Still snowing, but getting late so will send this on and wish you again a Happy Women's Day.


Good morning to you; good night for me,

Sorry I am late getting to this, but it has been a rather busy weekend for me. Yesterday, I was in Kyiv for a meeting of the PC HIV/AIDS Group. I am the communications director (secretary). This was my last meeting with the group. Got home fairly late as I neglected to tell the marshrutka driver I wanted to go to Korostyshiv. Ended up in Zhytomyr as did 3 Ukrainians and all of us had to ride bus back. Spent the evening with Natasha and family. Her brother and sister-in-law had come for a visit. Asya as usual fed me and we spent a lot of time talking.

Today, I walked to bazaar to pick up my carrier for the cat. It is a really nice one and so far Rah is jumping in and out of it. Later I cleaned kitchen stove, cabinets and walls and then had an hour conversation in Russian with Natasha. We are meeting every day for at least half an hour to prepare me for the Language Proficiency Test. I am going to take it next week when I am in Kyiv for my closing medical exams. Would really like to move up a level. We shall see.

We have had snow every day for two weeks now, but it is warming up ever so slightly every day. Today is was 5 (41F) and there was a lot of melting as well as more snow. According to the long range forecast the snow will continue until Friday and then rain and 50s. I am sure it will be a real mess.

Another PO story. Took a box of clothes in on Monday since they are supposed to be easier to mail! Hah! This time the clerk wouldn't accept the customs declarations because I had dated them mm/dd/yy. Here in Ukraine, the general practice is to put day then month. Everyone is Ukraine has accepted the way I date except this woman. Can't decide if she is stupid or mean or what. Anyway, I have redone all the forms and will try again tomorrow.

Forgot to tell you all an exciting event in Korostyshiv. We now have a stop light on the boulevard at the corner leading into the bazaar. It has a pedestrian light which is a real god send. Ukrainians don't slow down for pedestrians and I know this is one babushka that appreciates having a light so that I can get across the street without dying a thousand deaths every time a car turns the corner and speeds up.

It's 20:30 here now and I need to wash dishes so will close this off.

Love you,


Prevyet!

Yes winter returned yesterday with a vengeance. All last week the temperature had stayed between 41-45 and the snow was melting, the river thawed. Thursday and Friday it rained and melting was even faster. It rained most of the night on Friday. Yesterday morning, Saturday, we woke up to -5 (about 21F), sun, a bitter wind and bursts of snow. Of course everywhere there was snow left, it was covered with a thick layer of ice.

Therese and I went to Zhytomyr with Lena, a friend of ours. She wanted to buy a new outfit for a school reunion; Therese and I wanted to see if a shop there could fix our printers. (We both have Canons which printed beautifully at first. Now no color on mine and very bad color on hers.) Lena searched through the bazaar in the wind, snow, cold while we went to repair shop. We joined her later at the department store and she looked there for a while. We had not eaten lunch and we hurried to bus station to get home and get some lunch at 4. A ride that should have taken less than 30 minutes lasted almost 3 hours in a bus with no heat and wind chill at least -20 (0F)  There had been a terrible chain reaction accident involving several semis, a car carrier and a few cars on the highway due to black ice. One person was killed. Of course we didn't know what was going on until one of the men got off our waiting bus and walked up to the accident scene and back to report to us. At first I thought the police were being their usual inefficient selves, but when we finally reached and passed the scene I could see they had done the best they could. Just getting emergency vehicles in and then getting the road sanded so traffic could move safely had been near impossible. Of course when you are absolutely freezing you don't think about much else. That is truly the coldest I have ever been.

This cold is supposed to last until Thursday and then warm up a little. I am wearing out literally my winter clothes so hope spring is pretty damn close! I hand sewed my pjs which had ripped from top to bottom because I have worn them and washed them so much.

On Thursday I went to Kyiv to pick up my airline tickets which I had reserved on line (no e-tickets in Ukraine). I can't give you my schedule yet as I am still waiting for OK for flying Rah Rah on my flight out. I go to Kyiv tomorrow, Monday. I will be there until Wednesday afternoon for my closing medical exam. I should be able to get my tickets tomorrow and then I will send it to you.

Not much happening at work. I did teach and ecology lesson to Natasha's 8th graders and worked with her 9th graders on US geography. Ordinarily their spring break would begin tomorrow, but they will have to go to school 3 days to make up for some of the days of the 2-week flu quarantine. They have already gone on some Saturdays. On Thursday I will show and discuss the movie Hildago with the 9th graders. On next Saturday, Natasha, Masha and I will travel to Kyiv to spend the day with Wini and her tutor, Svetlana and her children. We are all looking forward to that. By the way the Orthodox Easter is not until May 1 so a long way off for them.

Enjoy spring. I will certainly enjoy it when it comes to Ukraine.


Good morning everyone!  Happy Easter!

We went on daylight savings time this morning and that made no difference to Rah Rah. Come sunlight he wants me up and out of bed. It has been light by 5:15 for well over a week now. The Ukrainian Catholics are celebrating Paskha today with the same rituals that the Orthodox will on May 1st. They got up early 3 am to stand in line at the church and have the priest bless their baskets of Paskha cake and food. It was about 41 this morning so quite a bit warmer. As a matter of fact the temperature has stayed above freezing at night and has warmed by two to three degrees higher each day. The snow melt has been gradual and the roads and sidewalks cleared enough to make walking safe. The sun has shone everyday and the stroller parade has begun! I also saw what for me is a sure sign of spring here--a girl with a mini skirt barely covering her butt wearing white boots with spike heels!  Yes spring has come to Ukraine.

Spent Monday through Thursday morning in Kyiv. Got my COS medical done; visited leisurely with quite a few members of our group who were in town; got lots of papers signed;Alice and Wini and a newbie and I had a wonderful dinner as guests of the  chief medical officers (Linda and Fran) at Furzhet. Furzhet is one of the restaurants in the middle of an upscale grocery store in downtown Kyiv. Women drinking, laughing like fools at all our misadventures turned a lot of heads and made the chief hostess very nervous. But we were crazy Americans. So what if we went to the shelves and bought a wine we wanted since it wasn't on the menu! We were in a grocery store!

I also finally got my tickets after a 3-day ordeal. The agents at KLM were wonderful. I had originally reserved tickets to go through Seattle to avoid a long layover in Amsterdam (because of the cat). But KLM could never get hold of Alaska airlines to approve the cat from Seattle to Boise. I finally settled for the layover in Amsterdam and will come through customs at Minneapolis. Here is my info. I will send it again later if you need.
April 30      Depart KLM 3097     from Kyiv    7:05
                 Depart KLM 6045     from Amsterdam   14:00
               Depart  NW 4905      from Minneapolis   17:12
                Arrive    Boise       19:11  (7:11 pm)

I bought a carrier for Rah from our local vet, but it was too big and he couldn't find a smaller one, but I was lucky enough to learn that another group mate had a smaller one and she is giving it to me. Natasha has made all the arrangements for getting his rabies shot. The state vet did not want to give him local rabies injection because he said it was so hard on cats. So I am paying to have European vaccine imported. Then I will have to pay again 3 days before I leave to have the state vet certify he is vaccinated and healthy; 24 hours before I leave country, I have to take those papers to the customs veterinary office at airport and get his passport. At check in I then pay for HIS ticket. I took cash in lieu of ticket from PC and am glad I did because it covers his and my ticket!

Not much else going on here except the coming of spring. I am reading a lot. Going to make a couple of more day trips to Kyiv to get rest of paperwork signed. Have washed up quite a few things for distributing. Therese and Kirsten have a friendly rivalry over who gets what when I leave.

Natasha and I didn't go into Kyiv this weekend because she had a terribly infected molar. They ended up taking her to emergency dentist at hospital Friday night and having it pulled. I had to do a lot of convincing that it was OK to take the Ibuprofen I gave her for the pain.  More on medical (mythical) beliefs some other time.

No post office stories this week, but one of the packages is already home which really amazed me because as I told Janet, I didn't think any of them went airmail and they were supposed to take 2 months. Who knows what I really ended up signing for after all that.

Love you--Happy Egg Hunting

 

                                                                 


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