Musings of an Ukraine Traveler

Dobray Ootro everyone,

Your morning is just beginning and my beautiful Sunday afternoon is winding down. It is definitely fall here in Ukraine although Thursday we thought we had skipped to winter. Thursday morning the wind blew, it rained and the temperature dropped, dropped. Dug out jackets, mittens, and bed socks as well as PC heater. Heat is not turned on until maybe October 15 if most people pay their bills.

It was a busy week. I taught 4 classes--3 at teachers college and one here in apartment to Natasha's 9th form. Really enjoyed being busy and it looks like I will have the same this week. Thought I might explain the Pedagogical College. Students who want to be teachers in any field--languages, vocational, math, primary, etc, enroll here usually when they are 9th graders (15). Many of them come from the villages and this will be their only chance at "higher education." There are dormitories so many students stay on campus. At the end of 3 years, they graduate and are able to go on to the university (usually the one in Zhytomyr) if they can get the money where they study 3 more years and receive a degree and a certificate to teach. Therese is a teacher at the college. It used to be an institute. I am not sure what constitutes the difference.

On Friday, I went to Kyiv in much rain and cold, to go with the others in a group who are going to India to turn in our applications for our visas. What a circus. So typically Ukrainian even though Indians were behind the desks. First, the clerk doesn't come until 10:30 (9:30 opening was stated on forms). There was a mass of people and of course no one queues up or knows where the end of the line is. A couple of couches were filled with people and when the desk opened, many of them took "their" places in line. Ukrainians expect that you are supposed to know and believe that they had a place in a line ahead of you!

Amit had been in contact with the embassy and we all had our packets filled out, correct fees, etc. Then, the guy behind the desk says the fee is 50 not 40 US dollars. Do you know how hard it is to get US dollars in certain amounts! To top that off they insisted that we hand in a copy of our passports as well as the passports! I happened to have one on me but most of the others didn't. Our group was not finished and at the closing time of the desk--11:30--the guy starts shutting down even though there are at least 10 more people in line! Thankfully Amit had by this time contacted the head of the embassy and he made the desk stay open and finish and promised to speed up our visa applications. The US Embassy had to approve our going first before they can issue us a visa.

Got to tell you how much I admire Amit. His patience, his serenity, his cool under pressure. I saw it not only in the embassy, but twice on the subway when he was stopped by militia (police) who wouldn't accept his PC documents which are in Ukrainian and demanded a passport. The second time, I stepped up and then the other 3 white women (they were a little suspicious of Claudia who is Mexican) did also and demanded that they check our papers too since we were with Amit. When we asked to see their name badges (which they are supposed to wear), they got very nervous and embarrassed. As Amy said, the terrorists that they are looking for are white (Chechynans) and the suicide bombers have been white women!

It was wonderful to have the sun and warmth back this morning. So wonderful that I decided to wash my whites. I soaked them in soapy, clorox water this morning and when I took them over the Natasha's to put in washer, they were gone. I thought, "Oh, I can wash them by hand. No problem. I did it for over a year." Let me tell you, I don't think I could have done it for another year. I was exhausted by the time I finished scrubbing, rinsing, and wringing and I only had one big piece--my sheet. My back was aching and all I could think of was how has Asya done it for over 50 years for 3-4 people. And she worked too. No one deserved a washer more than that woman.

Hope each of you is happy and content and going to vote!

I love you.

Happy Holiday!

Today, Korostyshiv is celebrating its birthday. It was founded in about 862 so is very old. I got back from our Regional Conference in Kyiv about 1:30 today and after lunch, Therese and I went out to the festivities. We walked through the carnival rides which are very busy and very noisy but didn't take a ride on anything. Bought some popcorn which you usually don't see around here. Pretty good except they sprinkled it with powdered sugar instead of salt--different no? We went to the dog show and cat show and petted all the animals; took in the flower arranging display and the chalk drawings by the different schools. Then we walked up to the stadium--never been there before--and watched a football (soccer) game. It has been a lovely fall day, sunny and mild. When we got back we watched a little bit of the dances and a very good Ukrainian rock group with their own bandstand and giant screen TV. It is election year and someone paid big time for these guys. Therese picked up some shashlik (meat shish ka bob) and I came home to some great homemade vegetable soup. Later we will go out and listen to some more bands and mill around, but I am coming home to watch the salute (fireworks) because it gets very cool in the evening.

I did get unpacked and picked up the shredded toilet paper roll that Rah had soooo much fun with. Of course he waited until this morning after Asha had fed him to wreck his havoc. Monday and Tuesday are going to be pretty busy with classes and I hope to get back to my trash can project the remaining part of the week. They still haven't been put out even for these very important days and I do not understand why. Will meet with Natasha and Zhanna on Wednesday to get things going again, I hope.

Not much happening. Really enjoyed and got a lot out of the regional conference which was 3 regions of about 100 PCVS. It's strange to watch the new groups just beginning in a way and know that we are only 8 months away from returning home. It is going so fast. I am ready. This has been great, but I am ready to get back to my life. Another funny bus story. Therese and I made a short trip to Kyiv on Tuesday. Coming home on the marshrutka which I have ridden for over 18 months, the driver went right past the turn off to Korostyshiv. I am yelling pazhalsta Korostyshiv and Therese heads for the front to tell him we need out at the center of K. He doesn't acknowledge her or me and keeps driving. Finally stops next to a cross over on the highway and points towards K and says "not far". When Therese objects, he tells the other passengers to tell us how to go. We knew how to go thank goodness. We made the 4 km hike into town and I was so so pissed. It was almost dark. Luckily, we didn't have backpacks. Of course there are no names, no company telephones, no service. He made a mistake and he wasn't going to admit it. So typical and so infuriating! I was not in a good mood. That morning I had fallen over a man's duffle bag on the bus which was in aisle. I had a huge knot and a small cut. It felt like he had pieces of steel in the bag. I have a bruise where the military guy rammed his briefcase in my leg last week. I am really becoming creative though. When I got home I wanted to ice the swelling on my arm. Picture this! I am sitting at my computer with a piece of frozen chicken on my arm! It worked! You thought you had to have ice cubes!
Well what would life in Ukraine be without a transportation incident.

Dear family and friends,

The leafs are turning as is the weather to cool and rainy. If I sit still for a while, I have to fire up my little heater to knock off the chill. Last Sunday, Korostyshiv Day, was lovely, but by Wednesday, clouds, rain, drizzle had set in. Other than that it has been a pretty "normalnah" week here for Ukraine. Taught a couple of classes and reworked some of my teaching materials.

On Wednesday I went to Kyiv to pick up my tickets for the conference in Germany. Even though I can purchase them on line from KLM, there are no electronic tickets so making the trip is essential. I also went by the Central Train Kacca where I bought all by myself all our tickets to Yalta this Thursday. I was really proud of myself as I managed times, dates, etc without the cashier looking at me like a real freak! We will all be together in a coupee which means we have privacy and can open or shut the window at our desire. Since there are four of us, no one else can share it with us.

Right now Rah Rah is sitting under my desk lamp which means that I can't see the keyboard--it is night here. I have moved him 3 times, but he loves the warmth! So if there are any mistakes I am going to blame it on him. By the way I am reconsidering not bringing him home to States. I have a done a lot of investigation and from what I am learning it is pretty easy and really not that hard on the animal if it is on board. I will keep thinking about it and look for a soft carrier in Kyiv. Most PCVs take their cats home sooo we shall see. A little worried about Beauty's reaction. Any thoughts on the matter would be appreciated.

Had a real "It's Ukraine" experience this week. On Friday, I received a notice that I had a package at the PO, so filled out the form, took my documents (pink card/passport) over. The clerk on duty told me I had to wait for the other clerk who was on break. I waited 20-25 minutes until she returned. She then proceeded to tell me in Ukrainian that I couldn't have the package until I paid for it. I asked her how much and she replied that she didn't know. I then proceeded to sit for another 10-15 minutes while she called Zhytomyr, etc, etc. The upshot was that what I understood was that I was going to have to see someone else. I went back to the office and told Zhanna my coordinator--remember she speaks no English. We go back to PO. They tell Zhanna and she tells me in Russian that we have to go to the "Controller." She calls her husband who drives a taxi and is on break. He takes us to the "Controller" in the city office building about 8-10 blocks away.

The Controller is a military customs inspector. Very nice. He speaks Ukrainian. I do understand when he asks me what is in the package. I had a very hard time not laughing out loud. I tell Zhanna in Russian and she translates into Ukrainian that I don't know even who sent the package. I say it may be a CD from my daughter, it could be books. The inspector then starts calling people. Zhanna makes copies of all my documents after he reads them. He dictates a letter that Zhanna writes and then she has me sign. When I placed my pen on the paper I thought it was a good thing I trusted Zhanna or I could be in a whole lot of shit. She tells me we are going to pick up the package but says in English "This is not the end." And it wasn't. Then Zhanna and I walked back to the post office; she paid them to copy the note; they gave her the package after a lot of stalling and talking and we walked back to the controller's office. Zhanna carried it !

Before I conclude this, I want to note that the package(mailing envelope) has already been opened by customs because it has been wrapped with string and stapled shut and wrapped in plastic covering-- -normalna. We get to the office and the inspector tells Zhanna to open it! I saw that it was from Bob and Kathy and Zhanna took out the travelling clothes and gear that I had asked them to send. He had Zhanna make a copy of the outside of the mailing envelope; we put all the stuff back inside; I took it and went home. Zhanna went back to the PO. When Natasha called Zhanna to find out what the issue was and translate for me, I learned that the green stamp on the envelope said that the package was suspicious and might contain illegal material. What I want to know is when customs opened it, did they look inside; did they fail to stamp it cleared. Anyway, it took more than 4 hours to get the package! and I didn't have to pay anything.

Hope each of you is well and enjoying the season. I won't send a letter next week until Monday night as we will return from Yalta on Monday morning.

Love and peace