Rich and spicy as the pepperpot soup that originated with
the Taino Indians, Jamaican cooking is a culinary melting
pot that combines a hint of Spanish, a dash of English and a
heaping teaspoon of Indian and Chinese with a cup or two of
African ingredients to serve up the Caribbean's most
creative cuisine.
Jamaica's history is told by the food Jamaicans eat. The
cassava the Arawaks grew is used today as "bammie,"
a toasted flat cake eaten with fried fish. The Maroons,
always on the run, devised a way of spicing and slow cooking
pork that they called "jerking", today's visitor
tastes jerk chicken and fish as well. To feed the slaves
cheaply and well, the ackee fruit was brought from Africa,
as were breadfruit and a variety of yams and root
vegetables.
The Africans carried their own culinary secrets with
them, including duckunoo, a steamed pudding made of green
bananas and coconut. Breadfruit arrived on the island
courtesy of Captain William Bligh, of Bounty fame. And the
ubiquitous meat patties sold by roadside vendors are a
direct, but much spicier, descendent of English meat
pasties.
Curried goat, a popular island dish often served with
rice and peas, dates to 1845 when -- following the abolition
of slavery -- plantation owners began importing indentured
laborers from India and later China; the new arrivals
quickly added their own contributions, including curry and
other spices, to the island's expanding palette of exotic
flavors.
In addition to indigenous vegetables like cho-cho, which
tastes a little like squash, and callaloo, which is similar
to spinach and used in pepperpot soup, Jamaica's lively
markets are piled high with bananas, coconuts and
pineapples, as well as the more exotic guineps, pawpaws,
sweetsops -- and the star apple that, when mixed with
oranges and condensed milk, makes a delicious dessert called
"matrimony."
The native pimento tree, the source of allspice, adds
itself to numerous Jamaican dishes. So do ginger, garlic,
nutmeg and Scotch Bonnet peppers, considered the hottest on
earth. These may or not be a key ingredient of the island's
famous Pickapeppa Sauce -- the recipe is a closely guarded
secret -- but they're essential when it comes to making the
mouth-searing jerked pork, chicken and fish for which
Jamaica is equally famous.
A technique thought to originate with the Maroons,
descendents of slaves who escaped from their Spanish masters
to the island's most remote mountain areas,
"jerked" meat is marinated for hours in an
incendiary mixture of peppers, pimento seeds, scallion,
thyme and nutmeg, then cooked over an outdoor pit lined with
pimento wood. The low heat allows the meat to cook slowly,
so it loses little of its natural juices while becoming
saturated with the flavor of the wood.
Jerk stands can be found all over the island. Rastafarian
I-tal, or vegetarian, meals abound in Negril. In the Middle
Quarters area of the South Coast, dried peppered shrimp are
sold by the bag. Delicacies like Stamp and Go (saltfish
cakes eaten as appetizers) and mackerel Run-Down (whole
salted mackerel simmered in coconut milk, tomatoes, onions,
scallions, thyme and hot peppers, and served with boiled
green bananas or yams) can be enjoyed island-wide.